River of Dreams – Helford River

Rainforests, ancient fiefdoms and tales of pirates mingle with hidden coves, cobb cottages and wooded riverbanks…

The timeless Helford River is an estuary like no other and offers a Cornish welcome second to none, as Jo Moon and Mark Featherstone discover …

Last night I dreamt I went to … no, not Manderley but another magical, mythical place where the ancient forest dips down to calm Cornish waters. The Helford River, with its trove of treasures, is a secret place like no other, and it’s not surprising that Daphne du Maurier drew inspiration from it for her atmospheric novel Frenchman’s Creek. Nestled between the dramatic coastline of the Lizard Peninsula and the deep waters of Falmouth Harbour, this most southerly river estuary in the UK is a picture-perfect paradise where cobb cottages hunker in the hamlets, enchanted creeks keep their secrets and holiday memories are made.

Helford Creek

The mouth of Frenchman`s Creek.

The delightfully quirky Holy Mackerel Cafe.

Approaching from the east and steering clear of the Gedges Rocks marked by the August Buoy, we motored slowly around Mawnan Point into the welcoming arms of what has to be the most beautiful estuary in Cornwall. Thickly wooded banks either side of the wide river mouth fringe the counterpane of gold and green fields behind, bordered by the ribbon of the South West Coast Path. Here and there are glimpses of discoveries to come – the white sands of the pretty little beaches and occasional caves hidden among the low-lying cliffs.

The `Iron Duke` has languished at the head of Frenchman`s Creek for over a 100 years.

The deep pool between Helford and Helford Passage bristles with moorings managed by two companies, Helford River Boats and Helford River Moorings, which can accommodate boats up to 40ft. Both east and west of this pool there are anchorages, but with a 5-metre tide, it’s best to check your charts carefully before venturing too far upriver. In a strong easterly you will want to be as far upstream as possible; however, the river offers full shelter in the predominant westerly weather. Interestingly, there is no harbour office here, but there is a real atmosphere of collaboration and welcome, as all stakeholders work together to promote a good experience for visitors. In fact, you’ll see both companies’ launches pottering about between the moorings.

The Helford River Boat Team give a big welcome to all.

Great care is taken when launching boats from Helford Passage.

A dream come true

If you’re trailing your RIB or sports boat, however, then what you’ll find here could be described as the ‘stuff of dreams’. Just like kids racing to jump into the pool as soon as they arrive on holiday, boat owners can dive straight into their watery adventure immediately upon arrival, as Helford River Boats have an outstanding launch and recovery service. Courtesy of a short-wheelbase Land Rover, they’ll launch your boat using their private slip, pop it on a mooring with a free water taxi service and even tuck your trailer away too! With plenty of holiday accommodation available on both sides of the river, bringing your family and boat along becomes a stress-free, enjoyable experience.

Once you are on the water, the best bit is that you are only two minutes from what has to be the UK’s best waterskiing area, situated at the mouth of the river. Sheltered from the predominant wind, there’s little to no swell, thereby giving a billiard table smooth ride and high-octane fun.

Peaceful Helford Passage.

Captivating creeks

Helford River begins at the historic port of Gweek, home to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, and thereafter stretches for a further 30 miles or so. If you want the inside track on the best places to explore, our top tip is to take the Helford River Boats tour early on in your visit, which will take you past the oyster beds and as far upriver as the medieval Merthen Wood. There is a wealth of history to discover, including the local headquarters for the Special Operations Executive in WWII, and great picnic spots such as Tremayne Quay, built for an errant Queen Victoria.

The Helford River Boat tour is great fun in the original Dyson (yes, that one) Sea Truck.

Seven creeks feed into the river, all of which are best accessed at high tide, including the enchanting Frenchman’s Creek, but each offers its own unique beauty and charm. Having read Du Maurier’s tales of derring-do on the passage down, we couldn’t wait to explore the river’s nooks and crannies and so headed for the south side of the river.

The pontoon at Helford Passage makes alighting from your teneder easy.

Mooring our tender on the Helford River Sailing Club pontoon, and having duly put a contribution in the honesty box, we walked up past the clubhouse towards the intriguing spire that we could see poking out from the tops of the trees. The quirky Holy Mackerel café is housed in the renovated Helford Chapel, and we can thoroughly recommend their smokie and feta salads while reading the venue owner’s unusual responses to his Trip Advisor reviews!

Helford River Sailing club is very welcoming with a great sun terrace and showers.

Following the path leading down from the café, we crossed the pretty ford at the head of the creek to the delightful Helford village. This charming and traditional place offers a village stores with a wonderful selection of local produce and the usual daily provisions. But don’t leave without buying owner Vicky’s heavenly organic bread – it’s a must. Thatched, whitewashed cottages with tubs of bright-scarlet geraniums line the lane along the creekside, their chocolate box charm concealing the dark history of smugglers and pirates who sought refuge in these waterways. Even the Custom House wasn’t safe from these desperados, and in 1840, 30 men broke in and made off with a consignment of previously confiscated brandy. Well, who can blame them!

Helford Passage get busy during the the summer months.

We took the winding path out of the village, over the headland and down through the fern-filled fairy fiefdom of Atlantic temperate rainforest until we came to the infamous Frenchman’s Creek – a place where umber waters move slowly between the mossy banks, and where time moves even slower. It wasn’t hard to imagine smuggling luggers lurking among the oak trees, lazily trailing their fingers in the seaweed-tangled water, ready to slip silently out of the creek at high tide …

Room with a view in the wonderful Ferry Boat Inn.

Arriving back in Helford village via the lower path, we delighted in the warm hospitality of the Shipwright’s Arms. This charming pub serves hearty, wholesome food and local ale at tables that sit virtually on the riverbank, providing breathtaking views over the river to the inviting sight of the tiny Helford Passage village.

Fish being unloaded for the Shipwright’s Arms in Helford.

Helford Passage beach is a hive of activity.

Passage to paradise

The ferry across the river runs on request, and we used the rather endearing high-tech method of opening one half of a large circle to summon the little white boat, which bustled over to transport us to the small cluster of buildings that make up Helford Passage. Mentioned by King Canute in 1023, it is believed that there has been a ferry crossing here to Passage Cove for 1,000 years, and although today it is a part of the South West Coast Path, it was traditionally the gateway into the Lizard for travellers heading south who wished to avoid highwaymen lurking in the labyrinth of winding lanes. Today, the beach is a hive of sand building, swimming and sunbathing, a technicolour tableau with the sea an improbable turquoise blue with clear skies above and colourful boats pulled onto the beach next to a rack of bright-orange life jackets.
Just a few steps from the beach, the Ferry Inn does a roaring trade – and no wonder, as the food here is excellent and served with a true Cornish smile. We sat awhile taking in the scene, refreshed by coffee and cake from the little blue van on the beach front, before tackling the steep walk uphill from the village to Trebah Gardens. With 24 acres of subtropical gardens, they are really worth visiting, as indeed are their National Trust neighbours, Glendurgan. Trebah sweeps magnificently down to its own private beach via a myriad of meandering paths through tunnels of giant gunneras and vibrant sweeps of pink hydrangeas punctuated by purple agapanthus. Arriving at Polgwidden Cove and enjoying a delicious Roskilly’s ice cream from the Boathouse Beach Café, we reflected on the plight of the 7,500 officers and men of the US 29th Infantry Division who embarked from Trebah for the D-Day assault on Omaha Beach. The remnants of the huge slipway the army built all those years ago are still visible even today.

Smokie Salad hits the spot.

Giant Gunnera in Trebah Gardens.

The sub tropical gardens at Trebah.

Tropical plants in Trebah Gardens.

Coffee and cake never tasted so good!

Although this is a private beach for garden visitors only, there are many pretty little coves nearby that are easy to access and perfect for either anchoring off or for pulling your boat up the beach and tripping the anchor so that you can enjoy your picnic in peace. A short 20-minute blast from Helford will see you at Maenporth Beach, which has toilets, a couple of cafés and oodles of rockpools to dabble the day away in.

Helford haven

The Helford River is a hidden treasure where the ancient land meets the salt-flecked river waters – a place to linger, explore and enjoy your boat as never before, where a genuine Cornish welcome awaits and getting on the water is as easy as slipping into a dream. But if, perchance, you do happen across this halcyon haven in your dreams, you will keep the secret to yourself, won’t you?

Helford River Boats HQ

Drift along with the tide in the many creeks along the river.

An incredible natural habitat

The Helford River’s Atlantic temperate rainforest is a biodiversity hot spot in the UK. This unique habitat, with its high humidity and cool temperatures, supports an extraordinary variety of moisture-loving species such as the rare lungwort lichen and the delicate filmy fern, both of which thrive in the damp, shaded environment. These rainforests also play a vital role in mitigating climate change by sequestering carbon, making it an essential natural asset in the fight against global warming.

Indeed, the whole area in and around the river has a unique biodiversity and is not only a Special Area of Conservation but also part of the Cornwall National Landscape and a Site of Special Scientific Interest, which aims to protect rare species and habitats. The Helford River Marine Conservation Zone protects the seagrass beds, which act as nurseries for seahorses and stalked jellyfish.

Port Navas Yacht Club is delightfully rustic and very welcoming.

Useful info

In high season, visitor moorings are at a premium, so it’s best to book ahead, although for boats over 6.5m, moorings are allocated on a first-come first-served basis. Helford River Boats has a handful of moorings kept free on a daily basis for visitors.

Helford River Boats

Tel: 01326 250770. Mobile: 07788 745282

Helford River Moorings

Tel: 01326 250749. Mobile: 07808 071485
They operate a handy QR code for payment.

Helford River Sailing Club

Tel: 01326 231606
Great showers and WCs. Top tip: Take plenty of £1 coins!
Small laundrette

Port Navas Yacht Club

Tel: 01326 340525
This is a tiny club at the head of Port Navas Creek. You need to check your tides and book a table ahead for great food in a homespun, charming clubhouse.

Fuel

Petrol and Diesel are available at: Falmouth Haven Marina fuel barge/Premier Marina Falmouth/Mylor Marina.

Trailing

There is a public slip at Gweek that is very tide dependent. Our top tip is to use Helford River Boats’ launch and recovery service.

Cruising destinations

Although a destination in its own right, this river also makes for a great base to explore the Lizard Peninsula and onwards to the Scilly Islands.

St Mawes: 6nm

A charming Cornish village with stunning sea views, a historic castle and a peaceful, picturesque harbour with fresh fish sold on the quay. Contact the harbour office for visitor moorings.

Mylor: 9nm

A wonderful marina with a local chandlery in scenic Mylor Creek, just 5 miles upstream, north of Falmouth. It’s a short walk to the amenities in the village, and, of course, Mylor is the home of the legendary 13th-century Pandora Inn.

Cadgwith: 13nm

An archetypal fishing village with a cluster of thatched cottages lining the valley and colourful fishing boats winched up on the shingle beach. Cadgwith’s traditional character thrives, with its fishing fleet still active, a gig club and the Cadgwith Cove Inn, known for Friday night Cornish song sessions. Anchorage only.

Falmouth: 8nm

A vibrant coastal town boasting a historic harbour, beautiful beaches, maritime heritage and a lively arts scene. Plenty of marinas and visitor moorings – we particularly recommend Premier’s Falmouth Marina.
Check out Issue 183 for our Ports of Call feature.