A World within a Harbour

“There’s something about the freedoms that the sea offers, it both welcomes and renews you,” said sculptor Anthony Gormley, recalling his childhood spent in and around the waters of Chichester Harbour. That phrase stuck with me during our journey of discovery around the 29 square miles of this incredibly beautiful, natural harbour. Because here, in the wide expanse of clear blue waters, stretching as far as the eye can see, it’s the sense of space and the freedom to explore that strikes you. Going around the harbour is like travelling the world in a day – each shoreline, each creek, each play of light unveils a new scene that transports you somewhere else. A white sandy anchorage with turquoise shallows at East Head evokes the Caribbean. The attractive village of Bosham glimpsed from the water brings to mind a Norman fishing village and cruising through the many intricate creeks and salt marshes, one could be nosing through the bayous of the Mississippi delta. And yet it’s all very British too: a working harbour, a sailing stronghold, and a place held in careful balance by those who call it home.

Our journey began at Itchenor, a genteel English coastal village of pretty, pastel-painted cottages with red tiled roofs and one of the most welcoming Harbour Offices we’ve yet encountered. It’s also now one of the best-equipped, as this year, Chichester Harbour Conservancy’s upgraded visitor pontoon has transformed Itchenor into the perfect base for visiting boats. With walk-ashore overnight berths, touch and go options, pump-out, and fresh water on the pontoon this is a great addition to the harbour. Electric hook-ups are imminent and work to upgrade the washroom facilities are well underway for next season although the Itchenor sailing club has changing and shower rooms that visitors are welcome to use. Situated right next to the harbour office, this first class club also offers accommodation in one of the many inviting, brightly decorated rooms with delightful harbour views. It’s a great place to stop for food, or a drink on the waterside terrace but check if they have an event on first as this is a vibrant sailing club with lots going on.

Nestled in a National Landscape, and with access at all states of the tide, Itchenor is the ideal point from which to explore the delights of the Solent and further afield. However, as this is the largest natural harbour in the south east, there is plenty to explore both on the water and onshore – there are over 56 miles of public footpaths including the newly inaugurated King Charles III Coastal Path. There are four channels that form the main harbour-Emsworth, Thorney, Bosham and, furthest east, Itchenor which is where our adventure starts in the capable hands of Ludo, Lead Patrol Officer. Harbour visitors are well served with some 3,000 moorings, 2,000 berths and 6 marinas and just beyond the historic timber clad tidal mill in Birdham pool sits the largest marina on these waters. Premier’s extremely well-appointed lock-entry facility has a waterside restaurant with breathtaking views, a café and, new for this year, the Lobster Hatch, offering day boat seafood.

The harbour’s education centre further up the creek must surely win the best classroom view award, however, aside from its stunning location, this is the focal point of the Conservancy’s mission whose principles of conservation, education and community engagement exist to protect the harbour’s unique qualities for us all to enjoy. The harbour team are clearly passionate about protecting the delicate ecology whilst also ensuring that visitors enjoy these waters to the fullest. We were impressed by Ludo’s calm professionalism and gentle authority – anyone moving too fast or creating too much wash, which erodes the shoreline and marshes, was politely hailed and reminded of the rules. And without exception, each encounter ended the same way: “Have a good one”.

The sun by now was high in the sky and breakfast beckoned so we headed back to Itchenor to grab some excellent coffee and breakfast rolls from the Quarterdeck Café before heading up the meandering Emsworth Channel, the furthest west in the harbour. Amongst the tranquil, apple green fringes of salt marsh, unseen curlews issued their melancholic call. Oystercatchers patrolled the mudflats, picking with bright orange bills at cockles and worms between the timbers of old oyster beds, their dark stakes jutting from the mud like the ribs of a wreck. At the head of the channel the spire of St James’s church rises above the red roofs of the busy town of Emsworth which fans out along the historic mill pond wall. The visitor pontoon is mid-stream but be sure to check the Emsworth ferry times before tying up. The delightful Emsworth Yacht Harbour lies to the east although due to the sill, this is restricted to access approximately 2 hours either side of high water.

Duly noting the falling tide, we took this as our cue to head back out around the Thorney Island peninsula, home to an army base and Eames Farm which is surrounded by coastal grazing marsh, wetland and reedbeds providing a vital habitat for migrating water birds. The familiar bustle of the harbour dropped away as the wooded shore closed in and the only sound was a faint splosh as a cormorant slid in ungainly fashion off a mooring buoy. There’s no landing here as this is MOD territory, however, on the upside, this does mean that the shore is virtually untouched and therefore a haven for wildlife.

We left this wooded continent and crossed the vast ocean, sorry, harbour, and stepped into a scene that could have been set in the tropics. East Head is the vast sandy spit that guards the harbour entrance and as we approached the ribbon of white sand, the midday sun cast down hot white diamonds of light that sparkled on the azure blue water. A swim was definitely in order and although my entrance into the sand-warmed water wasn’t quite as spectacular as that of the boys joyfully jumping from an anchored Axopar next to us, it was very refreshing nonetheless. We picnicked amongst the marram grass, transfixed by the breathtaking beauty of the harbour, and watched families arrive by boat, laden with their own picnics and beach paraphernalia. A designated anchorage – just south of the Fairway Buoy – it’s not hard to see why this is a favourite overnight stop for motorboats and yachts, paddleboarders and picnickers.

We reluctantly tore ourselves away to explore the fourth channel in the harbour, but were amply rewarded with a delightful cruise along the creek. Verdant pastures lined the banks, punctuated by the manicured lawns of large mansions that swept down to the waterfront. On the eastern shore, the chateau-like Norman spire of Bosham church rose, surrounded by a cluster of long, low rusty red-roofed cottages with mullioned windows. From the water, Bosham looks like a postcard from Normandy and we half expected to see a sign for galettes and cider as we alighted! There were no baguettes in sight, but it was bustling with launches, tenders and foot traffic, thanks to the regular ferry service from Itchenor. There are moorings for visitors and a few hours spent here at high tide is a joy. If you catch the tide right, you can nose right up to the quay, dry out and walk ashore but if not, there’s a visitors’ pontoon nearby. Thought by many to be the birth and burial place of Harold II, this historic village features in the Bayeux Tapestry. Amongst the narrow lanes, art galleries and tearooms are stitched into the patchwork of brick, flint and weatherboard houses, their colours softened by centuries of salt air. The view to the South Downs is glorious and the ancient quay is the perfect sunset spot to watch dinghies return to their moorings and the oystercatchers flying back to roost in the cooling air.

It was time for us to return to our roost too and we made our way back to Itchenor for a sundowner on the yacht club terrace. As we approached the new visitor pontoon, I spotted the clearly marked, colour coded jetty zones and thought, here’s a place that genuinely wants visitors to enjoy the harbour. At every point, whether in the signage, on the website or through the wonderful team on the water, their communication is clear and welcoming and makes the harbour a wonderful place to experience the water for all boaters, both veterans of the sea or beginners afloat.

Whether you come for the cruising, the walking, the wildlife, or simply to lose yourself in its shifting light and changing shores, the harbour offers a quiet kind of wonder – a sense of the world distilled into one very special place, cared for not just for us, but for generations to come.

As we walked back up the beach, busy with boats being loaded onto trailers at the end of the day, we could hear Ludo showing a family coming in on their cabin cruiser to the yellow overnight zone. “Have a good one,” he called to them as they tied up for the evening.

We already had.

The King Charles III England Coast Path is a new National Trail stretching 2,700 miles around the English coast parts of which run alongside the harbour. The conservancy website is an excellent resource for walking routes of varying length and difficulty. The harbour is one of the most important sites for wildlife in the UK and is home to tens of thousands of wading birds and wildfowl so do keep your dogs under control and stick to the paths.

Created under the 1971 Act, the Conservancy manages navigation and protects the harbour’s landscape. Its focus includes salt-marsh restoration, seagrass recovery, marine birds, and water quality. Both habitats are rich “blue carbon” stores, locking away CO₂ while supporting wildlife and protecting shores. The Conservancy is regenerating these ecosystems towards its 2050 vision of a resilient, wildlife-rich harbour delivering lasting benefits for people and nature.

Why it Matters

For the environment – to conserve its natural beauty, wildlife, and habitats.

For current and future generations – so people can continue to enjoy cruising and sailing, walking, birdwatching, and other recreation.

For the local community and visitors – supporting livelihoods and cultural heritage.