Keen ribster Phil Dargavel and his wife Jules invite us to join them and their friends on a weekend’s gentle exploration of Milford Haven and the beautiful River Cleddau. But keep your wallet to hand, as there are plenty of ‘off-the-beat’ lunch stops planned along the way!
Some good friends of ours who reside in the lovely South Wales countryside of Pembrokeshire recently invited us to stay with them for a few days’ holiday. Their close proximity to the water meant that my wife Jules and I thought it would provide the perfect excuse to take Hurricane, our ever-faithful Suzuki-powered BRIG Navigator 610, with a view to exploring Milford Haven and its local waterways. We’d not had the opportunity to boat in this area before, so naturally I promoted the idea to Jules that the weather would be blissful and the sea state calm, and that the Pembrokeshire coast was a veritable marine paradise awaiting our discovery! Slightly embellished perhaps, but certainly not far from the truth!
Our friends Ruth and Geraint live close to St Clears and were definitely up for spending some time afloat, so I started researching the best place to launch and keep the boat. Zooming in on Google Maps, I was surprised to see a small slipway, and a boat club too, actually in St Clears itself. In my naivety, I made the initial assumption that I’d alighted upon the ideal location from which to run out to the sea every day. But reality quickly took hold when I realised that St Clears, of course, is located on the banks of a tidal estuary, a good few miles upstream from what could be deemed ‘easily navigable water’. Accessibility was paramount. Therefore, another, more practical solution had to be found.
Phil & Jules onboard Hurricane.
Port information
Check out www.mhpa.co.uk – it’s a very useful source of information for everything connected with Milford Haven.
Haven found
It quickly became clear that the waters of Milford Haven were where we really needed to base Hurricane, and this being the case, it boiled down to two simple choices: either Milford Marina, with its tide-orientated, fully locked marina entrance, or Neyland Marina, and its simpler, tidal cill alternative. The latter won the contest as Neyland was not only more logistically convenient but, upon making a quick call to the marina office, they confirmed we could have a berth just south of the cill, which meant we could get out and about with Hurricane without restriction. Job done. But where to launch?
As some of you may know, there is in fact a vast slipway located just a short drive from Neyland Marina, just below the gaze of the Neyland Yacht Club building. The UK launch guide Boatlaunch reveals that the slipway here was originally built for the flying boats that were based within the Haven’s extensive waters during the 1940s. Their great concrete legacy was certainly more than sufficient for our humble purposes. With our homework done and our logistical planning now all complete, we were satisfied that everything was set in place for a few days of great boating.
Trailer borne
The day finally came when we hooked up Hurricane for the road journey ahead, said our goodbyes to Christchurch and set out on a course for the Severn Bridge. The traffic was encouragingly light at first, and the sun was shining with just a few whimsical clouds drifting overhead. Indeed, our spirits were high. But then, the full force of driving to a desirable part of the country in August bore down on us, as the reality of travelling on a bank holiday made itself known. The M4 traffic slowed ominously across all three lanes, then finally juddered to a halt. A repetitious start, stop, start, stop game of clutch control then ensued before we eventually made Port Talbot. Thankfully, things sped up a little at that point, and the journey achieved an even more mile-arresting pace as Carmarthen hove into view.
Phil & Jules. Hurricane on the trailer is nearly as long as an artic.
Having decided to trailer the BRIG with empty tanks, we found a suitable petrol station just outside St Clears to fill Hurricane to the brim with fuel. It can be a slow process ensuring that fuel ‘blowback’ doesn’t result in spilt fuel on deck, but I try to be prepared with cloths to hand just in case. The process went without a hitch, and 100 litres later we were all done with tanks fully charged and my wallet correspondingly depleted!
The cosy accommodation pods at Neyland Marina are great.
Landed
We arrived at Ruth and Ger’s a little later than hoped admittedly, but we pulled into their drive relieved to have finally made it. ‘We’ll launch tomorrow!’ we exclaimed and duly proceeded to settle down with our generous hosts to a delicious home-cooked meal and a welcome beer as we talked of our plans for the days ahead.
Neyland is around 26 miles from our friends’ home in St Clears, but upon our arrival in the little town, it didn’t take long to find the slipway and get ourselves sorted, ready to launch. The slip, being so wide, makes vehicle and trailer manoeuvring very easy. Low springs can present a bit of a problem, but all in all, the facility is very useful indeed. Once the boat was clear of the trailer and we’d made Hurricane fast on the slip’s holding pontoon, I towed the trailer around to the marina and left it, along with the car, in the facility’s super-big car/trailer park. With that sorted, we walked back to get the boat and brought her around to her allocated berth.
I was really chuffed that we’d alighted on Neyland Marina and its facilities. Its location couldn’t have been better for our few days’ prospecting, whether that involved exploring the peaceful, wood-banked upper reaches of the Cleddau river or heading out through the Haven itself, towards ‘The Heads’ and the open sea beyond. Our mooring couldn’t have been better either, and for a petrol outboard craft such as ours, the fact that the marina sold dockside fuel was an absolute joy. With Dale Sailing next door, complete with their boatyard and famed Dale Motor Yachts facility, the marina complex also benefits from a very good café restaurant and a useful chandlery, as well as showers, toilets and laundry facilities.
Ger’s first go
A first foray
By the time we had sorted ourselves out, the day was getting on. So as a first run out, we decided to simply familiarise ourselves with the Haven a little, to orientate ourselves with some of its sights and perhaps even get to taste the notorious Atlantic swells that rumble in between ‘The Heads’ – the headlands located either side of the Haven’s mouth that form its great bastions to the ocean beyond. The sea state was pretty calm that day, but some of the highest seas ever witnessed around our UK shores have been recorded here – 70ft monsters or even higher! Even though we were here in the height of summer, we were surprised that there weren’t more boats out on the water. It struck me how different a place this was to our home waters of the south coast. The views around us and the lack of traffic plying this waterway gave a sense of what leisure boating must have been like 40 or 50 years ago in some of today’s now prolifically busy UK coastal hot spots.
After a couple of hours or so of gentle and somewhat restorative exploration, we motored back to our berth, popped Hurricane’s covers back on and made her fast for the night, before hopping in with Ruth and Ger to drive back for a spot of supper and to talk about the next day’s plans. With lungs charged by the fresh sea air and with bellies replete, Jules and I slept well that night!
Pembroke coast. ©Richard Whitcombe-Shutterstock
Tide waits for no man
The next day, the sun was shining and the morning airs were gentle, so we decided on a leisurely idle up the Cleddau river with the intention of making Lawrenny Quay and the delightful Lawrenny Arms. Well, I say ‘leisurely’, but you can in fact go ‘full chat’ for quite a stretch on the river, which on the day we ventured upstream proved absolutely ideal for the two waterskiers running off our beam. However, beyond the branch off to Lawrenny and the Carew river, the speed limit reduces to dead slow. But as I’ll explain in due course, this is a blessing as the whole beauty of the river is dependent upon its peace and tranquillity.
Lunch at the Lawrenny arms.
We went on quite a little way up the Carew, but with the tide starting to ebb, we didn’t want to push our luck and so gently swung back to the pontoon at Lawrenny Quay. There were quite a few boats moored here, including RIBs, so we edged in and made fast with just a bowline and ambled up to the pub for some refreshment. We duly found a table, and upon settling down to a meal together amid the beautiful waterside surroundings, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of relief that my promise to Jules about sunshine and calm waters was so far holding up! But in reality, far more pressing than the weather was the state of the tide. Indeed, we’d all been so absorbed in enjoying a leisurely lunch that I’d overlooked the fact that Hurricane was the last craft remaining on the pontoon, and by now only a few inches of water separated her hull from the silty riverbed below!
Rousing the troops to action, we managed to pay the bill and get everyone aboard with moments to spare. The boat gently rocked, the engine leg was lowered just sufficiently for the prop to bite and the ignition key was turned. The Suzuki fired into life and burbled encouragingly as I gently put her astern and crept away from the pontoon out into deeper water. Thank goodness we hadn’t dallied any longer over lunch!
Our afternoon’s return journey downstream took in the delights of the timeless, thickly treed riverbanks, and with the tide in our favour, it meant our hull slithered like a ‘slipper’ craft through the still waters, causing virtually no disturbance at all. The approach to Neyland Marina is very straightforward even at low tide, particularly for a boat such as Hurricane, so before long, we were safely back on our berth having beaten the tide at Lawrenny by a hair’s breadth.
Pods in the heart of the marina.
On my way to the car, I noticed a couple of floating pods down below in the marina. They call them ‘Haven pods’ here at Neyland. I suppose they could be likened to the appeal ‘glamping’ has or the luxury that ‘shepherd’s huts’ offer. But there’s no doubt about it, these well-appointed floating holiday retreats provide a wonderful alternative to the norm – especially if you bring your boat and have it moored alongside you in the marina. A ‘Haven pod’ then has the ability to transform your boating holiday into a full 24-hour floating experience!
Taking dinner at the simply sumptuous Cliff Restaurant in Saundersfoot, with its great views out over the bay and the old harbour below, we talked through where we might head the following day. After some discussion, it was decided by mutual consent that Dale was a worthy contender. Being located at the western end of the Haven, it was proposed that Dale would allow our journey to take in other places of interest along the way. Plus, we were lured by the reputation of The Griffin, in Dale village, which not only serves great food but also offers its diners beautiful views overlooking the bay – very much our sort of place, especially as a handy pontoon awaited our eager arrival.
The River Cleddau towards the bridge at Pembroke Dock ©Shutterstock
A sail to Dale
The sun was high in the sky, but the wind was also up by the time we arrived in Neyland. We just hoped the latter wouldn’t make the going too arduous, but on slipping our mooring we made our way out into the Haven with the Cleddau Bridge off our port beam, its slender concrete form standing sentinel to the mouth of the Cleddau. Heading west, we passed Pembroke Dock where the Rosslare ferry departs, and beyond that we ventured up to Milford Marina. Though very happy with our choice of Neyland, Milford’s alternative offering looked pretty impressive nonetheless. Following this pleasant distraction, we crossed the water to explore Angle Bay, located on the Haven’s south side. It gets pretty shallow here, so we ‘tiptoed in’ to explore where we could. However, though it would have made a perfect place to anchor up and while away a couple of hours, there was no obvious location where one could safely ‘sling one’s hook’. But assuming one managed to do so, especially with the use of an inflatable tender, upon getting ashore, you could either head for the pub in the village or grab a light bite at the Cafe Môr along the coast path.
Cruising the River Cleddau
From Angle Bay we headed out past the lifeboat station and continued west, passing the imposing profile of Thorne Island as we went. This dramatic isle commands the western approaches to the mighty Haven, and it will come as no surprise to learn that this rocky islet, with its stark, stone-built fort, possesses quite a history in the matter of defence and the business of enemy deterrence. Covering an area of 2 acres and dominated by its coastal artillery fort, it was built to defend the Milford Haven Waterway in the mid-19th century. But its reefs and outcrops have been the cause of a fair few shipwrecks in the past, including a vessel that foundered here in 1894 while carrying a precious cargo of Scotch whisky! We paid the towering isle our respects as we sauntered by, but kept a goodly berth in the process for fear of joining those long-lost whisky bottles lodged in the rocks below!
Thorne Island – Pembroke. © Bildagentur Zoonar GmbH – Shutterstock
Our destination of Dale was within our grasp by now, and with Thorne Island astern of us, we made a dash for it through the rough and on into the crystal-clear and wonderfully settled waters awaiting us beyond Dale Fort. Clearly being a favourite place to visit, we were greeted by a veritable host of local boats lying at anchor. But upon threading our way through the visiting craft, we managed to lie off the end of the pontoon on a long line. However, caution reared its head, as the tide was once again on the ebb, and the landward end of this lengthy structure could already be seen drying out on the sandy beach.
Dale – The Griffin Landlord said we would be fine made fast at the far end of the pontoon.
We were assured by the landlord of The Griffin that Hurricane would be fine lying off the furthest end of the pontoon. No fear of the boat drying out, then, but without getting some drinks sorted, the same couldn’t be said of my crew! However, despite the busy bar, my fears dissolved in no time at all thanks to the super-attentive service we received. Likewise, before long, we were once again tucking into another fine meal together and enjoying another splendid waterside view. ‘Will this pleasure never cease?’ I asked myself. And what a great place this was. The Griffin was everything our hungry crew had hoped for and more – made all the more special by the people at its helm.
Dale Harbour and village
After lunch, the four of us took the opportunity to go on a short sightseeing ramble around the village before heading back to the ever-expanding beach. But true to his word, just as the landlord had assured us, Hurricane was still there, happily afloat and awaiting our return.
Cafe Mor. ©Jenny Burrows – Shutterstock
The shoreline was filled with happy people enjoying the water while a throng of dinghies, kayaks and paddleboarders hailing from the nearby water sports centre added to the merriment as the sun shone down on the happy scene. But alas, it was soon time to pull ourselves away, and upon Jules handing out the life jackets and connecting her kill cord, we powered out into the chop once more, away from the lee of Dale Bay. Keeping her slightly raised-bow angle of attack in favour of a dry ride, Hurricane fairly took seas in her stride out past Thorne Island. It was enlivening and invigorating, but then, as the miles fell away, so did the seas, until we were making a good 25 knots through flat water with the, by now, familiar profile of Neyland off our port bow.
Another great day notched up, the only disappointment being that tomorrow was to be our last before towing back to Christchurch. But what a day our last was to be…
Dale Pontoon and sandy beach.
The Cleddau’s call
For breaks away like this, fair-weather boating is top of the agenda for Jules and me, and thus far, it couldn’t be denied, this trip had delivered in spades. Besides, I get plenty of hairy-chested ribbing when out with our son Tim in the lively seas around the Isle of Wight. Even though, I confess, my bravery threshold may not be that high, for some reason I always feel confident aboard Hurricane. The BRIG Navigator is a very sound and stable little boat – one that always seems to keep some additional reserve up her sleeve if and when she’s called upon to provide it. But no need for white-knuckle courage now, for the last day of our Welsh odyssey was going to be all about being at one with the Cleddau and savouring the tranquillity of its upper reaches.
Could we make it all the way up the Cleddau to Haverfordwest and, in particular, The Bristol Trader for yet another lunch? Checking the charts and Google Maps suggested it could be tricky, because it’s tidal all the way. But with the tide finally in our favour, and yet more sun blessing our path, we felt compelled to give it a go.
The Cleddau Bridge spanning the River Cleddau between Neyland and Pembroke Dock ©Alan Morris-iStock
We had no idea to what extent the destination was going to be worth the effort, but we knew the journey was certainly not going to disappoint. With the Suzuki reined in, we purred along quietly and unobtrusively through the Cleddau’s dark-green waters. There were a few boats moored at intervals along its length and some beautiful riverside houses peeping out from the dense tree cover. Our discreet wash was now the only thing breaking the river’s mirror-like surface, and at 4 knots, Hurricane’s stealth mode meant her loudest contribution to the proceedings was the engine’s telltale striking of the water.
At Picton Point the river splits, one waterway going east, the other – the one we wanted – going west. The experience was becoming reminiscent of Swallows and Amazons as we pressed on into the unknown. So far, the Cleddau had been open and wide with plenty of space and depth to make navigation a pretty straightforward affair, but as we closed in on Haverfordwest, the river seriously narrowed. We studied the depth as we edged ever on, over the silty bottom, through the wafting weed. But upon traversing the final stretch beneath the transport bridge, we spied Old Quay and The Bristol Trader. Not another craft was there to greet us, we were quite alone – the only mariners this day to have ventured this far upstream.
As it transpired, the only point to fasten to was a single iron ring affixed to the face of the old stone quay wall. But make fast to it we did, and upon doubling around the ring to prevent chafe, we ran a single line out from the bow, which allowed the current to naturally hold the boat’s fenders snug against the quay.
The Bristol Trader was actually rather good. A little information digging reveals it has a history dating as far back as the 1700s when Haverfordwest was a bustling and important trading port, positioned, as it is, at the highest point of the tidal Cleddau. In its current guise, the recently refurbished Trader served us some great pub grub and we had a very pleasant time there, sat in the fresh air taking in our brave new surroundings. The Trader’s hospitality certainly represented a fine reward for our hard-earned efforts, and in every sense our river voyage, all the way up to ‘historical Haverford’, was proving, once again, an absolute delight.
The 9 miles or so back to Lawrenny saw everything working in our favour. With no pressing urgency and no contrary tide hounding our tail, it really caused me to think that with a little planning and forethought, river cruising can be as rewarding and enjoyable as traversing the open sea. Indeed, the whole experience of the last three days had entirely changed my perspective about freshwater boating.
Three days done
All that was left now was to retrieve Hurricane and pop her back onto her trailer. Because the tide was by now running out fast and throwing us a strong cross current in the process, it took a couple of goes to coax the RIB onto the trailer’s rollers. But once on nice and true, we strapped her down, secured the engine and fastened her travel cover on, all ready for the journey home to Hampshire.
Saying our goodbyes to our wonderful friends Ruth and Ger was tinged with sadness, but I knew we’d be back, as Milford Haven and the Cleddau river are such wonderful places to explore. Plus, I’d love to aim for the islands of Skokholm and Skomer another time – perhaps even strike out for Tenby and in so doing get to experience the outstanding beauty that whole run of Welsh coast has to offer. But I tell you one thing: the flexibility of owning a trailer-borne craft takes some beating. One’s options in terms of experiencing new and interesting places are, essentially, limitless. It’s the simplicity associated with this form of boating that my wife Jules and I particularly love. And when you consider what just these three days alone granted us in terms of rewarding experiences and keepsake memories, it’s hard to put a price on that.
So, where to next?
Neyland Marina
Neyland Marina ©Alex Whittaker
Part of the Yacht Havens Group, this extensive marina is very functional and well serviced. It benefits from helpful staff, is easy to access by car or by boat and offers dockside petrol and diesel. Neyland has other great facilities as well, including spacious parking for one’s trailer. Don’t forget, check out those Haven pods too!
www.yachthavens.com/neyland-yacht-haven
Milford Haven
The town was founded in 1790 by Sir William Hamilton, who designed it in the form of a grid. It was originally intended to be a whaling centre, though by 1800 it was developing as a Royal Navy dockyard, which it remained until the dockyard was transferred to Pembroke in 1814. It then became a commercial dock, with the focus moving in the 1960s, after the construction of an oil refinery built by Esso, to logistics for fuel oil and liquid gas. By 2010, the town’s port had become the fourth largest in the United Kingdom in terms of tonnage, and it continues its important role in the United Kingdom’s energy sector with several oil refineries and one of the biggest LNG terminals in the world.
The natural harbour of the Haven was known as a safe port and was exploited for several historical military operations throughout the second millennium. Campaigns conducted from the Haven included part of the invasion of Ireland in 1171 by Henry II and the one led by Cromwell in 1649. Forces that have disembarked here include Jean II de Rieux’s 1405 reinforcement of the Glyndŵr Rising. In 1485, the future Henry VII landed close to his birthplace in Mill Bay before marching on to England.
Lawrenny Quay
The Jetty at Lawrenny Quay.
There’s free mooring for visitors to the Lawrenny Arms or Lawrenny Tea Room. Both are perfect stops in a beautiful setting. Just watch the tides, though!
The Griffin, Dale
The Griffin Inn, Dale
There’s free mooring on the pontoon at Dale, but as the tide ebbs, so the space available decreases. Therefore, timing and good fortune favour the lucky boater! The food and ambiance at The Griffin are terrific and it will always be on our ‘must-go-to’ list when visiting again.
The Cleddau Bridge & slip
The Cleddau Bridge
Prior to the Cleddau Bridge fully opening in 1975, the crossing was served by a couple of small ferries, the Cleddau Queen and Cleddau King, and in researching this article, photos of them docking at Neyland slipway look like the very same slip we used to launch Hurricane, the latter being one of the best and most convenient free slips we’ve yet used.
The Bristol Trader, Haverfordwest
Carew medieval castle and Carew river. ©Marisa Estivill-Shutterstock
A lengthy trip upriver maybe, but worth the effort along with the sheer pleasure of unwinding as the river courses its way through some of South Wales’s most beautiful and unspoilt countryside. Once having made the Trader, you’re treated to good food and a waterside setting.
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