Jo Moon and Mark Featherstone head north, bound for one of the finest ‘ports of call’ gracing Devonshire’s north coast – an estuary from which a veritable host of opportunities await the adventurous boater keen to  explore ‘off the beaten track’.

Searching for that special coastal destination for your next family boating adventure or a place to base your next holiday afloat? If so, you might consider putting the enchanting North Devon coast and quaint fishing village of Appledore at the top of your ‘bucket (and spade!) list’ for a memorable boating adventure. This coastline is truly magical, with cliffs sheltering the most charming and picturesque villages and towns imaginable, such as Clovelly, Ilfracombe and the rugged, heather-strewn island of Lundy. The novel Tarka the Otter by Henry Williamson was set in the Taw-Torridge Estuary, and just as Tarka darted around in the ‘flowing scents of the waterway, his nose pricking as he swam’, these waters are perfect for nosing your RIB in and out of pretty coves in your own watery quest.

Launching slip at Appledore

Instow Beach.

Fish & ships

Situated where the rivers Taw and Torridge meet, and boasting picture postcard estuary views, Appledore is a delightful quayside village, with narrow winding streets of pastel-coloured houses providing the perfect base from which to enjoy the classic coastal delights of days on the beach, crabbing on the quay and walking or cycling along the miles of glorious coastal paths. The area is steeped in maritime history, and Charles Kingsley, who wrote the 19th-century novel Westward Ho! (a great surfing town along the coast), described Appledore as the ‘little white fishing village’. Historically cod, salmon and bass were caught here as well as cockles and mussels collected at low tide. Many villagers were part of the Newfoundland cod trade, fishing in the spring and returning with salted cod at the end of the season. The area still retains its maritime heritage today, with the world-renowned Appledore Shipyard, situated further upriver, providing local employment and training and continuing the centuries-old tradition of shipbuilding in Devon.

Ilfracombe on the North Devon coast – Thomas Faull/istock

Time & tide

Since the launch of the last steam trawlers from the shipyard, time seems to have slowed down, with little change to the area. The 400 miles of the North Devon coastline, with its towering cliffs that plummet into the surging surf, has remained largely untouched for hundreds of years and for good reason. The tides around the Bristol Channel are the most powerful in Europe and strong currents abound. Many of the ports along the coastline are consequently traditional tidal harbours, and drying sands fringe the estuary and the River Taw as far as Barnstaple. But here is a serious point of note: entry into the estuary involves crossing the Bideford Bar, which can be approached two hours or so before and after high water, depending on your vessel’s draught. However, crossing the bar, located in the vicinity of the estuary mouth, should be avoided in fresh onshore winds or during periods when a big swell is running (particularly so, of course, in wind-against-tide conditions). So, treat the estuary mouth, and indeed this entire stretch of coast, with the respect they deserve. Meanwhile, Appledore offers moorings in the pool between Grey Sand Hill and the west edge of Instow Sands, but again, be mindful of areas where the tide runs strong, especially near mid-ebb.

The first Time & Tide bell to be installed in the UK.

However, if you do your homework on the tides and weather and plan your trip accordingly, we guarantee that the effort will be well worth it and you will be rewarded with a wonderful welcome by the locals, who, like the neighbour you’ve been meaning to drop in on for some time, appreciate that you have taken the trouble to visit. Indeed, we were genuinely knocked for six by the many cheery greetings from ‘Appledorians’ and their willingness to chat. Dogs seem to be particularly welcome, and many of the pretty cottages in the old town have dog bowls outside for their refreshment. There is an excellent choice of places to eat – from takeaway fish and chips to a couple of brasseries tucked away in the alleyways behind the quay. A handful of traditional centuries-old pubs with beamed ceilings and flagstone floors offer pub fayre with panache, and there is a vibrant creative community, with art galleries and live local musicians playing most evenings at different venues.

Each bell has an inscription chosen by the local community

Time & Tide Bell

Located near the slipway in Appledore, this is part of a nationwide installation of bells by artist Marcus Vergette. These bells, located around the UK’s coastline, are designed to create awareness about the changing climate and its impact on sea levels. Positioned at high tide marks, the bells ring in response to the rising waters at high tide, providing a haunting auditory reminder of the environmental shifts occurring. By hearing the bells, people are not only witnessing a unique piece of art but are also being prompted to consider their environmental surroundings and the broader implications of rising sea levels. The installations are situated in diverse locations from urban harbours to remote beaches, each chosen for its particular environmental or community significance. Appledore is one of 11 and more are planned, so we will definitely be on the lookout for these on our visits around the UK.

More information can be found at www.timeandtidebell.org

Moorings at Instow. iStock-Mypurgatoryyears

Artisans & Vikings

Saturday morning in Appledore is a delightful experience, and we strolled along the promenade taking in the hustle and bustle as the sunlight glittered on the estuary beside us and seagulls soared among the gentle wisps of cloud in the bright summer sky. The little blue-and-white ferry pottered to and fro, taking residents and holidaymakers alike to the inviting sweep of Instow Beach, where children clutching buckets and spades prepared for a hard day’s work of sandcastle building. Further on, the wide public slipway was chock-a-block with gig rowers launching their narrow boats into the water, their oars propped precariously like a giant game of pickup sticks. At the end of the quay, we wandered through the open-air market, where artisans sold their home-made goods such as cheeses, soaps and honey. The lively and social atmosphere reminded us of the French market in Les Sables, and we half-expected someone to walk past, baguette under their arm, wishing us a friendly ‘Bonjour!’ Making a beeline, as we always do, for the local lifeboat station, we headed up Irsha Street and were enchanted by the beautifully preserved and colourful cottages whose names hinted at the centuries of maritime heritage, including ‘Master Mariner’, Boatman’s Cottage and ‘Ferrymans’. An intriguing large stone monument, said to be part of an ancient burial mound at the end of the street, is a reminder that attacks by sea have been part and parcel of coastal living through the ages, and indeed, Viking raiders, led by Hubba the Dane, attacked North Devon and were repelled by the brave men of Appledore. Relieved that the locals of today are much more welcoming, the monument nevertheless piqued our interest in the rich history of the area and we headed for the noble Georgian edifice that houses the North Devon Maritime Museum. Three floors of well-curated exhibits chart the area’s history, including some fascinating photos and archive footage of the US army practising the D-Day landings on Instow Beach.

The Hubbastone serves as a reminder of the defeat of the vikings.

A day on the beach isn`t complete without an Appledore Hocking Ice Cream

Humorous octopus house embellishment.

A traditional seaside village

Armed with a picnic foraged for in the fabulous emporium that is Johns delicatessen, we headed over to Instow, a traditional seaside village boasting a couple of pubs and small shops that line the beach front. The long sandy beach of fine white sand stretches invitingly along the estuary with stunning views back over to Appledore, and it was the perfect place for us to spread the picnic blanket out and soak up the atmosphere. Sailing dinghies weaved in and out in the middle of the river while paddleboarders pottered along the shore, mirroring the dinghies in their graceful dance as they moved in between the swimmers and children scooping up water for their sandcastle moats.

Waterfront promenade at Appledore. 2: Discover the history of shipbuilding and WWII escapades in the North Devon Maritime Museum at Appledore.

Instow is a favourite among walkers and cyclists thanks to its location on the extensive 180-mile network of paths known as the ‘Tarka Trail’, following the routes described in the novel Tarka the Otter through bucolic Devon countryside. Nature lovers will appreciate the area for its rich biodiversity, especially at low tide when large mudflats are revealed, and sandpipers and little egrets are among the large variety of birds migrating here. The trail follows the old train track, past the traditional signal box – the first to be Grade II listed – and on past the North Devon Yacht Club, whose members are particularly welcoming.

Tarka Trail at Barnstaple North Devon © shutterstock

The prettiest cottages in Irsha St, Appledore

Pretty as a picture

We wondered back to Appledore after a full day’s exploring and walked along the promenade as the lavender twilight smudged to deep indigo and the festoon of lights illuminated the harbour, reminiscent of a Pissarro painting of Montmartre. This enchanting coast had certainly worked its magic on us, and although we were here for only two nights, it seemed as though we had had a full week away. We really recommend you find your ‘inner otter’ and spend time here on your own watery quest for a truly memorable family holiday.

The tiniest house we`ve ever seen can be found in Irsha Street.

Ship’s dog ‘Jess’ & Tarka the Otter at Bideford.

Cruising destinations

Clovelly

Clovelly

A visit to this world-renowned fishing village, awarded Britain’s most Instagrammable village in 2020, is to take a step back in time. It is celebrated for its unique, traffic-free cobbled street that gracefully descends a 400-foot cliff. Pastel-coloured cottages adorned with vibrant flowers cascade down the main street to the small but working harbour, with each twist and turn revealing breathtaking vistas. Traditionally, donkeys have been used to transport goods up the steep incline, while sledges facilitate the descent, maintaining the charm of a bygone era. Visitors by land need to pay a fee to visit the village, but visitors by sea can moor up on the sea wall two hours either side of high water and for a fee make use of the showers, water and electricity.

The harbour dries out at Clovelly © RolfSt 2 – istockphoto

The Red Lion pub here is next to the ancient breakwater and offers accommodation as well as great pub fayre; plus there are cafés and another pub too vying for attention further up the hill.

Lundy Island

Lundy Island

Less than 3 miles long and little more than half a mile across, the island lies 10 miles north-west of Hartland Point. Owned by the National Trust, it is a serene and unspoiled oasis known for its diverse wildlife and rugged natural beauty. Lundy is Norse for ‘puffin’ and there are 15 times as many puffins as people here, as well as Manx shearwaters and storm petrels who breed here. It isn’t just a birdwatcher’s paradise, though, as there are unique plants, unusual animals such as Japanese sika deer and a colony of seals around the island, which, like the island itself, reside in a Marine Protection Zone.

Lundy has strong tides and no harbour, so a visit here is definitely an adventure, but pick a quiet day and approach near slack water, ideally when the tides are halfway between springs and neaps. Anchor in the Landing Bay or marked anchorages to avoid damage to the seabed as far as possible.

The Grad II listed signal box is on the Tarka Trail passing through Instow.

Useful information

Appledore

The slipway is public and free to use with car and trailer parking tickets from the machine. You can tie up on Appledore Quay – there is no harbour jurisdiction in place here, but avoid commercial boats in situ.

Instow

Moorings and anchorages are available between Grey Sand Hill and Crow Point.

If you have small children you can use the ferry steps to drop off and then anchor off Instow Beach and use a paddleboard to get back to the beach, or swim! Check your pilotage guide carefully for accurate information as there is no harbour master either here or in Appledore.

Provisions

There is fresh water available on Instow Quay, but Johns of Instow and Appledore have shops on both sides of the river and carry an amazing array of local goods, general provisions, and fresh dairy and vegetables.

The best bread run in the South West is a trip to the Country Cottage artisan bakery in Bideford. On a high tide, you can tie up on the quay and leave the skipper to admire the 24 arches of the 15th-century bridge spanning the river Taw – overlooked by the town of Bideford.