Jo Moon and Mark Featherstone head for the thriving Italian port of La Spezia. Located in the ‘Gulf of Poets’, this town has much to offer all those who love the sea – with close links to some of the most beautiful cruising destinations to be found on Italy’s north-west coast.
There are more reasons than there are types of pasta to visit the north-west Italian coast, with its endless turquoise seas, clear blue skies, fabulous seafood and culture at every turn. For a real feast for the eyes and soul, though, the Gulf of Poets and the charming town of La Spezia are a must on any Mediterranean itinerary. Nestled on the picturesque Ligurian coast, this sheltered bay is a sensory delight, the dramatic coastline and wooded slopes contrasting with the mouth-watering hues of the gelato-coloured houses. Just as the fishermen used to use the bright colours of the houses as a guide home, their gunwales brimming with the day’s catch, you will be drawn into this enchanting corner of the Italian Riviera that has inspired poets and painters since time immemorial.
La Spezia, the second-largest city in the region after Genoa, is recognised as the gateway to the famous string of centuries-old seaside villages known as the ‘Cinque Terre’, Five Earth or Five Lands in English. It really is the perfect base from which to explore this amazing area, which was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1996. Visiting the villages is easy by train or ferry, but for the more hardy, mountain bike and walking trails top the cliff connecting the five villages of Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Alternatively, stay closer to home and use your tender to visit the hidden coves and pristine beaches in the bay.
One of the many wonderful examples of trompe l`oeil – look closely at the washing hanging on the `balcony`!!
Luxury on the Med
Bounded by the Apuan Alps to the west, where Carrara marble has for centuries been quarried and carved by masters such as Michelangelo, this is a busy naval and commercial port tucked into a natural inlet halfway between Genoa and Pisa. Protected by the islands of Tino and Palmaria and a substantial breakwater, the magnificent purpose-built Porto Mirabello Marina is a truly unique and memorable place to stay on your Italian odyssey. The marina is modern and ultra-luxurious, catering as it does to the superyacht trade, but without the ultra-prices, which, as a guide, are around 100€ per night for a 13m boat – far less than many other marinas along the Riviera. But it would be best to check first as the price is based on the berth, not calculated by the metre.
The square in Lerici has lots of restaurants overlooking the bay.
We love the excitement of exploring a new marina and strolled along the wide pontoons admiring the tableau of nautical luxury and the sleek designs of the superyachts accentuated by the sunlight glancing off their shiny white and chrome exteriors. Crew bustled about preening and polishing, and the air was thick with the scent of the Japanese cheesewood planted around the harbour. The marina facilities are second to none, and there is even a helipad should you need to park your helicopter! Arranged around a pleasant square are cafés and restaurants, and a small glass-domed shopping precinct with a great little chandlery and nautical clothing shops.
Away from the harbourside, the alleyways are delightful to explore.
However, in among all this pomp and glitter is a real Italian welcome for visitors. The concierge ladies in particular are keen to make every visitor’s stay special, from organising food and laundry deliveries to recommending the best place in town to hire electric bikes. There’s a pride too in the naval history of the port, and this seafaring culture is well represented in the oldest naval museum in the world just beyond the marina on the outskirts of the town.
Fried squid, anchovy and shrimp doesn`t get much fresher (not sure about the risk assessments though?!)
Ligurian Oranges
History and gastronomy in La Spezia
We left this oasis and crossed over the elegant bridge onto the picturesque promenade along the harbourside. The port welcomes cruise ships and the waterfront is bristling with passengers booking Cinque Terre trips and guided tour groups. However, venturing into the heart of this historic city to the Centro Storico, we found a somewhat quieter and more authentic area, with pavement cafés lining charming squares and trattorias showcasing Liguria’s finest seafood. Severely damaged in WWII, the city is a mix of old and new architecture, but the winding streets of the old town are atmospheric and the planted boulevards delightful to walk along. Fortified by a wonderful lunch of frutti di mare accompanied by the local focaccia di recco, we ascended the weathered steps that cross the city walls to San Giorgio Castle, a majestic Genoese fortification dating back to the 12th century. Eventually reaching the top, our efforts were rewarded with breathtaking panoramic views of the bay, framed by the rolling hills covered in a tapestry of dense forest, terraced fields, olive groves and vineyards, showcasing the unique agricultural heritage of Liguria. There is no pasture here, and it is little wonder that the local population rely heavily on the sea to provide for them.
ce cold local wine Vermentino pairs perfectly with local oysters.
The view to the east takes in tumbling villages clinging to the steep hillside with their joyful cacophony of colour. In contrast to these precarious settlements are the imposing granite walls of the Castello di Lerici towering above the southernmost tip of the Riviera. We found Lerici to be a hidden gem on this stunning coastline, and it has a small marina taking boats of up to 12m along the pontoon. The town has all of the characteristics of the Ligurian culture, with picturesque buildings along the promenade and the usual pretty cafés around the square, but it is more off the beaten track than the Cinque Terre and as such has a more humble charm. Percy and Mary Shelley famously fell under its spell and settled here in 1822, drawing inspiration for their poems and novels. Their friend Byron used to swim to visit them from across the bay in Portovenere and wrote much of his poetry here too.
Beautiful fishing town of Portovenere near the Cinque Terre. © iStock/Blue Jay Photo.
Medieval Portovenere
At the end of the peninsula to the west of La Spezia, the medieval town of Portovenere has a stunningly beautiful harbour and the especially welcoming Marina del Fezzano, which has water and electricity on the pontoons. The houses along the waterfront are unusually tall and narrow, and with their varying heights and hues of cinnamon, pistachio and citrus, they look like a collection of books jammed higgledy-piggledy into a bookcase. This is the perfect place for swimming and sunbathing on the many beaches fringing the coastline before heading into one of the plentiful restaurants for pesto pasta and a chilled glass of the delicious local Vermentino white wine. The sea caves are fascinating and would be a great place to visit on SUPs, but on this occasion we took the steps from the Church of St Peter down to Byron’s cave.
One of the many churches in Santa Margherita Ligure.
Italian memories
Drying off on the rocks after a last swim in the crystal-clear waters, we watched as the setting sun turned the sea into a magical cauldron of oranges and pinks, the whispers of the romantic poets and painters floating on the still night air. This coastal gem, with its unique blend of colour, light and culture, promises an unforgettable experience that we think will imbue your every Italian supper with special meaning and memories.
Porto Mirabello marina – berthing fees include access to all amenities including this beautiful pool.
The Five Lands
The Cinque Terre, meaning ‘Five Lands’, comprises five picturesque villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. Each village is uniquely charming, characterised by colourful houses, narrow alleyways and breathtaking views of the Mediterranean Sea.
Monterosso al Mare
Monterosso al Mare © iStock Jenifoto.
The largest of the five villages, known for its beautiful beaches and historic sites, such as the 14th-century Church of San Giovanni Battista. Look for the tunnel dividing the old town from the new town.
Vernazza
Village of Vernazza © iStock/Cebas.
Often regarded as the most picturesque village, with its natural harbour and brightly painted buildings. Visit the medieval Doria Castle, which offers panoramic views of the coastline.
Corniglia
Corniglia © Shutterstock/Andrew Mayovskyy.
Perched on a cliff, is the only village not directly adjacent to the sea. Corniglia’s vineyards and terraces provide a serene backdrop, making it a peaceful retreat compared to its bustling neighbours. There are stunning views from the top of the long flight of steps, but we recommend the shuttle bus from the train station.
Manarola
Manarola © iStock/Aletheia97.
Renowned for its vibrant houses that seem to tumble down the hillside. It is one of the oldest villages in the Cinque Terre and is famous for its wine production, particularly the sweet Sciacchetrà wine.
Riomaggiore
Riomaggiore village, a short distance from La Spezia © iStock/Nyc Shooter.
The southernmost village, is a little more lively with plentiful restaurants and local shops. It’s a great place for photographing the picturesque sunsets.
Cruising destinations
Portofino: 29.13nm
A picture postcard town with luxury boutiques in a pretty little harbour, this is a must-see destination. However, it may be best to avoid peak times in the summer and weekends as it is also at the top of everyone else’s list to visit! The marina here is tiny, so anchor off if possible.
Portofino. © iStock Olga Gavrilova.
Santa Margherita.
Santa Margherita has a marina in the centre of town.
Port of Pisa. © iStock-Fabio Fagiolini.
Santa Margherita Ligure: 38nm
The Grande Dame of the Italian Riviera with elegant five-star hotels sitting majestically on the promontory above the harbour, this is an authentic Italian town with a small marina in the centre but with few facilities. Look out for the many wonderful examples of trompe-l’oeil, which are used on many of the buildings along this coastline but feature particularly here. It was a way for Ligurians to dress up the tall and narrow homes without added cost, and there are especially ornate adornments on most of the buildings here. Have fun spotting false shutters, cornerstones and elegant cornices!
Santa Margherita Ligure
Pisa: 34nm
Just 10 minutes away from this historic city of culture, the Port of Pisa has a very sheltered large marina from which you can catch a bus to see the famous Leaning Tower in the Square of Miracles. Cruise along the River Arno, which flows through the city under the most unusual bridges, with photo opportunities at every curve.
Pisa: 34nm
Useful information
Porto Mirabello Marina
- VHF Channel 73
- 0039 0187 778108
- To book a berth ahead they recommend emailing:
- salesdepartment@portomirabello.it
Marina del Fezzano
- VHF Channel 9
- 0039 0187 790103
Boat charter
- There are plenty of boat charter companies that have a wide range of powerboats for hire with or without a skipper, such as SamBoat and Click&Boat. SamBoat in particular have lots of useful information on their website, recommend booking a few months in advance and also have RIBs available, which are perfect for exploring the nearby coves.
Flights
- Ryanair direct flights from East Midlands/Stansted/Birmingham/Glasgow to Pisa and from Stansted to Genoa.
- EasyJet direct flights from Bristol, Gatwick, Luton and Manchester to Pisa.
Extract from ‘Lines Written in the Bay of Lerici’ by Percy Bysshe Shelley
I sat and saw the vessels glide
Over the ocean bright and wide,
Like spirit-winged chariots sent
O’er some serenest element
For ministrations strange and far,
As if to some Elysian star
Sailed for drink to medicine
Such sweet and bitter pain as mine.
And the wind that wing’d their flight
From the land came fresh and light,
And the scent of winged flowers,
And the coolness of the hours
Of dew, and sweet warmth left by day,
Were scatter’d o’er the twinkling bay.
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