River of Dreams – Helford River

If you’re trailing your RIB or sports boat, however, then what you’ll find here could be described as the ‘stuff of dreams’. Just like kids racing to jump into the pool as soon as they arrive on holiday, boat owners can dive straight into their watery adventure immediately upon arrival, as Helford River Boats have an outstanding launch and recovery service. Courtesy of a short-wheelbase Land Rover, they’ll launch your boat using their private slip, pop it on a mooring with a free water taxi service and even tuck your trailer away too! With plenty of holiday accommodation available on both sides of the river, bringing your family and boat along becomes a stress-free, enjoyable experience.

Once you are on the water, the best bit is that you are only two minutes from what has to be the UK’s best waterskiing area, situated at the mouth of the river. Sheltered from the predominant wind, there’s little to no swell, thereby giving a billiard table smooth ride and high-octane fun.

Helford River begins at the historic port of Gweek, home to the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, and thereafter stretches for a further 30 miles or so. If you want the inside track on the best places to explore, our top tip is to take the Helford River Boats tour early on in your visit, which will take you past the oyster beds and as far upriver as the medieval Merthen Wood. There is a wealth of history to discover, including the local headquarters for the Special Operations Executive in WWII, and great picnic spots such as Tremayne Quay, built for an errant Queen Victoria.

The ferry across the river runs on request, and we used the rather endearing high-tech method of opening one half of a large circle to summon the little white boat, which bustled over to transport us to the small cluster of buildings that make up Helford Passage. Mentioned by King Canute in 1023, it is believed that there has been a ferry crossing here to Passage Cove for 1,000 years, and although today it is a part of the South West Coast Path, it was traditionally the gateway into the Lizard for travellers heading south who wished to avoid highwaymen lurking in the labyrinth of winding lanes. Today, the beach is a hive of sand building, swimming and sunbathing, a technicolour tableau with the sea an improbable turquoise blue with clear skies above and colourful boats pulled onto the beach next to a rack of bright-orange life jackets.

Just a few steps from the beach, the Ferry Inn does a roaring trade – and no wonder, as the food here is excellent and served with a true Cornish smile. We sat awhile taking in the scene, refreshed by coffee and cake from the little blue van on the beach front, before tackling the steep walk uphill from the village to Trebah Gardens. With 24 acres of subtropical gardens, they are really worth visiting, as indeed are their National Trust neighbours, Glendurgan. Trebah sweeps magnificently down to its own private beach via a myriad of meandering paths through tunnels of giant gunneras and vibrant sweeps of pink hydrangeas punctuated by purple agapanthus. Arriving at Polgwidden Cove and enjoying a delicious Roskilly’s ice cream from the Boathouse Beach Café, we reflected on the plight of the 7,500 officers and men of the US 29th Infantry Division who embarked from Trebah for the D-Day assault on Omaha Beach. The remnants of the huge slipway the army built all those years ago are still visible even today.

The Helford River is a hidden treasure where the ancient land meets the salt-flecked river waters – a place to linger, explore and enjoy your boat as never before, where a genuine Cornish welcome awaits and getting on the water is as easy as slipping into a dream. But if, perchance, you do happen across this halcyon haven in your dreams, you will keep the secret to yourself, won’t you?

The Helford River’s Atlantic temperate rainforest is a biodiversity hot spot in the UK. This unique habitat, with its high humidity and cool temperatures, supports an extraordinary variety of moisture-loving species such as the rare lungwort lichen and the delicate filmy fern, both of which thrive in the damp, shaded environment. These rainforests also play a vital role in mitigating climate change by sequestering carbon, making it an essential natural asset in the fight against global warming.

In high season, visitor moorings are at a premium, so it’s best to book ahead, although for boats over 6.5m, moorings are allocated on a first-come first-served basis. Helford River Boats has a handful of moorings kept free on a daily basis for visitors.

Tel: 01326 250770. Mobile: 07788 745282

Tel: 01326 250749. Mobile: 07808 071485
They operate a handy QR code for payment.

Tel: 01326 231606
Great showers and WCs. Top tip: Take plenty of £1 coins!
Small laundrette

Tel: 01326 340525
This is a tiny club at the head of Port Navas Creek. You need to check your tides and book a table ahead for great food in a homespun, charming clubhouse.

Petrol and Diesel are available at: Falmouth Haven Marina fuel barge/Premier Marina Falmouth/Mylor Marina.

There is a public slip at Gweek that is very tide dependent. Our top tip is to use Helford River Boats’ launch and recovery service.

Although a destination in its own right, this river also makes for a great base to explore the Lizard Peninsula and onwards to the Scilly Islands.

A charming Cornish village with stunning sea views, a historic castle and a peaceful, picturesque harbour with fresh fish sold on the quay. Contact the harbour office for visitor moorings.

A wonderful marina with a local chandlery in scenic Mylor Creek, just 5 miles upstream, north of Falmouth. It’s a short walk to the amenities in the village, and, of course, Mylor is the home of the legendary 13th-century Pandora Inn.

An archetypal fishing village with a cluster of thatched cottages lining the valley and colourful fishing boats winched up on the shingle beach. Cadgwith’s traditional character thrives, with its fishing fleet still active, a gig club and the Cadgwith Cove Inn, known for Friday night Cornish song sessions. Anchorage only.

A vibrant coastal town boasting a historic harbour, beautiful beaches, maritime heritage and a lively arts scene. Plenty of marinas and visitor moorings – we particularly recommend Premier’s Falmouth Marina.
Check out Issue 183 for our Ports of Call feature.